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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: th400 not shifting til 4500rpm | ||
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#1
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Hey guys, it's been awhile unfortunately...anyhow, I have a 68SS with a ZZ502 crate motor and a Rossler racing built TH400. I've been trying to troubleshoot a shifting problem I've been having, my car WILL NOT shift into the next gear(1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd) unless I hit 4500RPMs PERIOD. No matter what, full throttle, part throttle, it WON'T shift until it hits 4500RPM. I have replaced the vacuum modulator, both rubber lines(top and bottom) and even sent the governor back to Rossler to have him check it out. Still not upshifting until it its 4500, and as soon as it drops to 60MPH in 3rd it kicks down into 2nd gear. I dropped the pan tonight and check everything in there and all is tight.
Then I noticed that the kickdown wire goes to the switch panel I have mounted underneath the dash(the way it was when I bought it 9 years ago). Question is, where should the kickdown be wired to? And what am I missing that will let my baby return to normal shifting during normal driving??? It gets really aggravating when I'm trying to drive it sensibly through town yet it won't upshift until 4500RPM... I've talked with Carl Rossler at Rossler transmission and he says it must be a vacuum issue but I have replaced the rubber lines up top and at the modulator. I haven't gauged it at the modulator but at idle you can feel vacuum with your finger, I have to think it has something to do with the kickdown being wired to a switch under my dash. Does the kickdown work on a constant 12v or only when the pedal is at WFO? My Baby has been pretty much useless to me all summer cause she's undriveable everywhere except on the open road and I want to get her squared away so I can give her the kind of use she deserves! Thanks to all in advance for any and all advice. Mike 68SS502
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ZZ502, Rossler Racing TH400 w/3,200 RPM TCI, 12-bolt posi w/3.73's. 3" Exhaust with X-pipe and 40 Series Flowmasters. Front SSBC disc conversion with 12" slotted rotors and 2 piston PBR calipers. Formerly known as 68SS454. |
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#2
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Mike , I read this and I was like "Odam" , Ive been there.. with a fresh motor no less,, it was a while back ... ten years .. I remember fearing for my motor because it was NEW and my tranny,, "because it was MY tranny
... alls I can tell you is it ended up being a vacuum thing for me... too maybe try a new hardline to the tranny "vacuum" and keep the rubber to a minimum,,, good luk bud I didnt see anything wrong with mine but I think I just tried a different one and it started shifting...
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1968 Camaro PRO STREET 406 Brodix .645 Roller Glide brak Dana 60 5.38 Ladr bar 32.16.5 1989 Vette Z-51 357 Dart ,Billet Specialties 1986 IROCZ- 468 400 2003 Roadstar 2003 GMC 4X4 http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/q...guy/?start=all
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#3
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disconnect the kick-down wire at the trans and drive it. if it still shifts late ,replace the solenoid at the valve-body. the solenoid should be about $10 at a trans shop. the kick-down wire goes to a switch at the carb. should have 12 volts going to the solenoid at wot only.
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#4
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You can unplug the vacuum line, cap off the source of vacuum, then hook up to the disconnected line a hand vacuum pump and pump down to 20" of vacuum.
Go for a ride and see/feel if shifting improves. If no improvement, exchange vac modulator, be sure the little rod is there between the v/mod and valve body. Grease will hold it inoplace when installing new v/mod. If there is improvement, not enough vacuum, or too stiff on v/mod for vacuum supplied from intake. Solenoid gets ign power. Switch is closed at WOT for forced downshift. Trans will run fine without solenoid, just need to manually downshift when WOT is achieved. I too, have a Rossler TH400 in my MCSS and it shifts smoothly at very light throttle, all in by 20 mph. Any more than 1/4 throttle, and 2nd gear chirp happens along with a hit in the kidneys at deeper throttle positions.
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Give a man a rescue dog for the health of his soul. My 68 Camaro http://www.flickr.com/photos/everettwn68 |
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#5
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It's probably not a vacuum problem.
It's also not the governor. Unhook the kickdown wire from the trans and see if it fixes it. If it does not, drop the pan, pull down the kickdown solenoid. If you install a gasket on the solenoid that uses a rubber disc to seal, you will get the exact symptoms you described.
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www.jakesperformance.com - High performance GM automatics/LSx Engines and Parts. |
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#6
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Quote:
X2...if the switch is "incorrect", it iwll mess withthe proper shifting... I had this happen about 12 or 13 years ago...turns out thw switch went bad...take all of the kickdown wiring off the tranny and take it for a ride...I'll bet she'll shift perfectly, then you know you'llneed a new kickdown switch... What's happening, is the transmission is "reading" that it shuld stay kicked down, and is only "upshifting" when it hits a "protectiono circuit" to cause the tranny to automaticcaly upshift for self-preservation...the way it was designed... Also, the kickfdown shuld run up to a switch that is actualted by the throttle linkage on the carb, and shoudl not run to a switch inside the vehicle (if I read that correctly)...
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Keith 1967 Camaro Bought 15 years ago: 230, PG w/ 314K miles! Progression: 350 (325 horse), TH400, open 3.08 383 (450 horse), TH400, open 3.07 383 (450 horse), TH400, 8.5 4.56 posi 383 (450horse), TH400, 8.5 3.73 383 (450 horse), Muncie, 8.5 3.73 |
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#7
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X2
Try to find a swich to mount on your carb that looks like this;
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One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new ) RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10 posi, ducted hood and best et 11.59, 1.5's 60'. All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)+ MT Super Scavenger headers. OK FI too.![]() http://epitomesrebuild.com/ |
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#8
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Well, turns out that the kickdown wire for some reason was wired to one of the 3 toggle switches I have mounted on a panel under my dash(Ignition, electric fan and ? until today...) I've always got in my car, turned the 1st and 3rd switches on before starting, knowing that one was the ignition and not KNOWING what the 3rd one was. I left the 3rd switch down this evening and took her out for a test drive and drove and shifted perfectly
![]() VERY happy that I can now use my baby whenever I want and not just for "higway trips" but also VERY that I've wasted this whole summer troubleshooting things that tirned out to be a simple wire and not using my car all summer.Thanks for the help though guys, I should've posted this months ago and I wouldn't have wasted the whole summer. On an additional note, this is what I get for not installing my own tranny after I had it built... Cheers! ![]() Mike 68ZZ502
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ZZ502, Rossler Racing TH400 w/3,200 RPM TCI, 12-bolt posi w/3.73's. 3" Exhaust with X-pipe and 40 Series Flowmasters. Front SSBC disc conversion with 12" slotted rotors and 2 piston PBR calipers. Formerly known as 68SS454. |
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#9
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Glad to hear you are back in business...enjoy the ride!
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Keith 1967 Camaro Bought 15 years ago: 230, PG w/ 314K miles! Progression: 350 (325 horse), TH400, open 3.08 383 (450 horse), TH400, open 3.07 383 (450 horse), TH400, 8.5 4.56 posi 383 (450horse), TH400, 8.5 3.73 383 (450 horse), Muncie, 8.5 3.73 |
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#10
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Love happy endings but not ones that take so long. And your location Mike, is a bad one for driving your baby this time of year huh?
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One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new ) RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10 posi, ducted hood and best et 11.59, 1.5's 60'. All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)+ MT Super Scavenger headers. OK FI too.![]() http://epitomesrebuild.com/ |
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#11
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Quote:
Cheers! ![]() Mike
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ZZ502, Rossler Racing TH400 w/3,200 RPM TCI, 12-bolt posi w/3.73's. 3" Exhaust with X-pipe and 40 Series Flowmasters. Front SSBC disc conversion with 12" slotted rotors and 2 piston PBR calipers. Formerly known as 68SS454. |
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